This work illustrates the best techniques and aesthetic features provided by 3D digital modelling compared to traditional techniques. It also shows the optimization of working hours by saving time for the goldsmith and the gem-setter.

We assess a model for earrings (design property of Bernard Rezignac (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.) formed by a rubies and brilliant rosette-shaped centre emerging from a leaf with a pavé of brilliants.

Detailed below, there is an outline of the best improvements in this jewel provided by 3D digital modelling.

Symmetry: it increases geometrical accuracy. In the top view below, you can verify the degree of geometrical perfection in the hexagonal section of the rosette.

Aesthetic enhancement: you can see in the right and front views how the progressive section enlargement of the claws enhance the set gemstones. Even though this progressive enlargement could also be achieved by means of traditional techniques by means of hand-grinding, it would be much more laborious.

 

 

Internal finishes: see the geometrical accuracy of the lace work for brilliants in the image below, forming a panel of hexagonal cells.

 

 

Easy setting: see the group of 6 claws for each brilliant in the pavé in the image below as well as the radiant cut in the perimeter of the leaf. The goldsmith usually omits this task in the traditional technique, and it is the gem-setter's duty to lift the grain of the surface.

 

 

A render of the final effect:

 

 

Disassembly: The leaf of the model has been divided into 2 parts: the surface of the pavé and the side apron. In the same as in traditional techniques, this disassembly is essential when it comes to achieving a mirror-polished interior of the pavé, this task must be carried out before assembling the side apron.

 

 

Up to this point I have outlined some technical improvements for this particular model. The range of valuable contributions of the digital technique is increased with each new project.